Une histoire complète de Barbour : naviguer des côtes écossaises vers une renommée mondiale

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Photo par derneuemann on Pixabay

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Barbour, the epitome of British heritage fashion, has firmly anchored its place in the hearts of style enthusiasts worldwide. Known for their exceptional waxed jackets and a rich past interwoven with the threads of British history, Barbour's journey is as unique as its products. This article charts the remarkable history of Barbour, detailing its humble beginnings, royal endorsements, iconic products, and its current status as a global fashion powerhouse.

Fondée en 1894 par John Barbour, the brand originated in the small Scottish town of Galloway. Known for its damp, rainy conditions, Galloway inspired John to create durable, weather-resistant clothing. Upon moving to South Shields, a bustling port in northeast England, he observed the local mariners, fishermen, and dockyard workers' need for robust weather-proof clothing.

Barbour's first innovation was a refined answer to the toile cirée outerwear prevalent in the region. Traditionally, weather-resistant clothing was made from sail scraps treated with fish oil, which, while effective, was incredibly odorous. To counter this, Barbour introduced an innovative technique that involved treating cotton fabric with flax oil, effectively creating weatherproof clothing without the unpleasant smell.

Au début du XIIe siècle, Barbour expanded its product range beyond maritime workwear. Under the leadership of John's son, Malcolm, the company began producing long coats and riding capes, catering to farmers, gamekeepers, and other country folk.

Malcolm also introduced the first mail-order catalogue in 1908, which significantly broadened the brand's customer base. As a result, Barbour products reached international shores, with orders coming from as far afield as Chile and Hong Kong.

The brand took another significant step forward in 1928, when Duncan Barbour, John's grandson, joined the company. A motorcycle enthusiast, Duncan introduced a new line of motorcycle products, including a one-piece suit specifically designed for the International Six Day Trials riding event. This range quickly gained popularity, becoming the standard for British racing teams for over 40 years.

Barbour's association with royauté britannique has significantly contributed to its global recognition. The brand received its first Royal Warrant in 1974 from His Royal Highness Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh. This prestigious endorsement signified that Barbour supplied goods to the Royal Household, elevating the brand's status.

The royal recognition continued with a second Royal Warrant from Queen Elizabeth in 1982, followed by a third from His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales in 1987. This royal patronage has helped Barbour maintain its high standards, ensuring that its workmanship and quality consistently meet the exacting standards of the British monarchy.

In 1983, Barbour introduced what would become one of its most iconic pieces – the Beaufort jacket. Designed by the then company head, Dame Margaret Barbour, the Beaufort quickly became synonymous with wax jackets. Recognisable by its studded corduroy collar, the Beaufort jacket was inspired by French shooting jackets and aimed to offer more style and functionality than its British counterparts.

The Beaufort's blend of outdoor ruggedness and sleek aesthetics made it an instant hit, setting a new benchmark in English countrywear. Alongside the Ashby and Bedale jackets, the Beaufort remains one of Barbour's most popular items even today.

Over the years, Barbour has found favour not just with the British aristocracy but also with celebrities and fashion icons. The late princesse Diana was frequently spotted wearing a Beaufort jacket, sparking a trend among young women who wished to emulate her style.

The brand's popularity received another significant boost in 2007 at the Glastonbury music festival, where celebrities like Lily Allen and Alex Turner of Arctic Monkeys were seen wearing Barbour's waxed jackets. This event helped the brand reach a younger demographic, proving that Barbour's appeal transcends generations.

After more than a century in the fashion industry, Barbour continues to uphold its commitment to providing high-quality, durable, and stylish clothing. The brand's products are timeless classics, with items like the Beaufort jacket remaining in style since their inception.

A notable aspect of Barbour's current endeavours is its focus on sustainability. The company's 'Wax for Life' initiative emphasises repairing jackets instead of buying new ones, helping customers extend the lifespan of their garments. This commitment earned Barbour the Best Circularity Award at the 2022 Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards, reaffirming the brand's dedication to responsible fashion.

From its inception in the damp landscapes of Galloway to its current status as a globally recognised luxury fashion brand, Barbour's journey has been a testament to the power of innovation, quality, and timeless style. As the brand continues to chart its remarkable course, one thing remains certain: whether for a country stroll, a royal outing, or a music festival, a Barbour jacket is always the perfect companion.